Part II Portland, Maine: An Unexpected Charm
It turns out that Portland has something exceptional for anyone who comes.
I chose to get off the train and stay in Portland, Maine mainly because I needed to take the ferry ride from there to Nova Scotia, Canada. But since I was in no hurry, why not spend some time to get to know this port city even it had not been on my list to see?
It turns out that Portland has something exceptional for anyone who comes.
America’s Coziest City
The views this Atlantic coast city has to offer are serene and exquisite; in fact, it has recently replaced Boston for the honor of the Coziest City in the country, according to The Boston Globe. While I was here, I found this to be true through my 2-day random spectacles. So far as best as I could tell, it was one idyllic destination in the canicule season along the U.S. Atlantic coast– another cozier factor that beat Boston for the three blistering months each year.
An aimless stroll along the waterfront Commercial Street, where all the wharves extend themselves into the ocean, was therapeutic, if not hypnotic, for me.
Portland Foodie Culture
Portland has more restaurants per capita than any other city in the country, so I heard on the train coming here. In addition, it is also one of the best places to get a local pint.
These ‘words on the street’ (also in an official report as I found later) had awakened my curiosity now, and more specifically, my appetite.
After arriving in Portland and settling myself in my B&B, I stumbled upon this seafood joint, less than ten minutes’ walk from my place in the central city.
Perusing the menu, I saw too many items I wanted, but managed to put together a seafood meal that I could handle: poached and chilled colossal cocktail shrimp, same-day-harvested oysters on the half shell, and sea-to-table muscles from one mile up north along the coast.
The steamed mussels were meaty and plump, a perfect size for a full mouthful and flavorful bite. The premium Maine oysters were succulent, as if they knew the way when touching the tongue, vanishing instantly, but leaving the freshest aftertaste of the rich sea in the mouth. The shrimp were the largest I had seen, boiled with perfect temperature and timing in mind.
Plus, by pairing it with a local farmhouse pale ale draft, the whole time felt like a blind date that went surprisingly well for the palate.
All of these were listed under the HORS D’OEUVRES on the menu. For me, if those were served as appetizers, I would not crave–and had no room left anyway–for the main items.
A lunch with a view
There was no way for me to take a mealtime lightly here in this seaside city, even a quick bite in the middle of the day. Before catching my boat to N.S. Sitting on the pier, I had a scallop roll and stuffed oysters, and topping it off with a bowl of fresh seafood chowder—for the first time I was relishing the authentic New England seafood chowder, not from a can.
In front of me was a full view of a wharf reaching out to the ocean, in a way, connecting my thoughts with the wide-open world.
“The benevolent love the mountain, the wise love the water.” (仁者爱山，智者爱水) This reflective and somewhat confounding quote from Confucius 2500 years ago started to make more sense to me at the moment.
Then, the Portland people
I had a hard time believing in “benevolent strangers” or thought they might only exist in movies. Until I met them. My B&B hostess prepared a breakfast basket and placed it outside my bedroom door the next morning.
Attached to the basket was her hand-written note. It read:
Good Morning,
I like to serve the scones strawberry shortcake style; scones crumbled in the bowl, then the berries and topped with the maple yogurt. Please leave the basket on the altar table outside your door. I’ll collect it later today.
Hope you slept well,
Marthe
How could one not feel touched? Isn’t it the thought, something largely missing in today’s world, that still counts?
Time to get on the Boat
This ferry named CAT is nothing short of legendary. If you have never heard it (neither had I before this trip), it is because there are only two ever constructed. Another one is homeported in Hawaii.
While the outside looked stylish and masculine, the inside was more impressive: spacious, restful, surrounded with panoramic views for everyone. It had a gift shop, a full bar, all kinds of food and fruit supplies more than enough for its 5.5 hours journey on the open sea.
BTW, this ferry could take almost anything for passengers—bikes, cars, trucks, even the largest tour buses, parked on the lower level of the boat at affordable prices.
If you are as curious about the CAT as I am, here are the specs and a brief Bio:
