Culture on the Plates, And the Walls
Looking for a portal to a new culture? There is no easier way than starting with their food, and you don’t even need to set foot across the ocean. Simply, let your stomach become your guide and be armed with a curious mind.
Our second restaurant review at TraLi Irish Pub in Morrisville NC offered such an occasion, hosted by owners, Martin Mahon and Chef Eamonn Kelly. TraLi Irish Pub is tucked inside Grace Park in Morrisville, sitting alongside Thai’s Noodle, Peppers Market & Sandwich Shop among others, all of which showcase their distinct traditional exterior designs.
Stepping inside TraLi, cultural memorabilia decorate the walls, transporting me right to a world of legendary Irish castles and exotic meadows. In a separate room for group dining, where we were seated, the St. Patrick stained glass window instantly took my breath away. The owner told me that the stained glass was 70 years old, inherited by the third generation stained glass maker in Belfast, Northern Ireland. The owner brought all the glass over here from his home in Ireland and assembled right here. The window casts mystic light from the sunset, cascading the whole room in luminous colors.
If you’ve ever heard the saying “Irish Seven Course Dinner: six beers and a potato,” then you’ve got a picture of Irish culinary history. Even today, potatoes and beer have their irrefutable places on the menu. Here are some dazzling moments that stuck with me long after I left.
First came the seafood chowder, one of their trademark appetizers. Traditional Irish stew, in case you didn’t know, has been their national dish for centuries. A poem from the early 1800s praised, “Then hurrah for an Irish stew, that will stick to your belly like glue.” This bowl had reaffirmed that adage, from its distinctive fresh seafood aroma upon touching the tip of the tongue, to its full-bodied flavor and warmth, offering much-needed winter comfort on this mid-January evening.
Our featured main course, Grilled Chicken and Corned Beef Boxty (traditional Irish potato pancakes) were on display side-by-side in front of me. It was artistry on a plate: dotted green onions on the generous, creamy sauce with crisp Boxty teasingly hidden underneath. However, those who are familiar with Irish history should know how the Boxty has evolved. It started out from its “poor-house bread” status in the past, to its contemporary presentation as one distinctive Irish culinary expression. My first bite was awe-inspiring: what an impeccable way to pair beef or chicken and potatoes so that I no longer need to play favorites.
As widely acknowledged, beers are simply a must at an Irish pub. Although Guinness is one of the most successful beer brands ever, England seems to receive credit for its invention in the minds of most people, including me, until now. It’s actually an Irish dry stout that originated in the 1700s at St. James’s Gate, Dublin. I felt I owed it a much keener sip on its own turf today. It’s a strong-bodied beer with a smoky, dark chocolate note, but at only 4% ABV; it provided the right balance with the Boxty.
Finally, the highlight moment was dessert. We had Warm Chocolate Chip Bread Pudding. The dark chocolate flowed from the top like a waterfall covering half of the brown buttery bread. It awakened different taste buds, providing a perfectly sweet ending to the meal.
Our food review came to an end; however, a thought crossed my mind. Next time you are strolling in the mainstream grocers, don’t feel surprised if you bump into the Boxty on the shelves. Like sushi, naan, tacos, and egg rolls, the Boxty is more than a routine item on your shopping list. They are all cultural portals
